Hector's Miramar
342 W. 1300 South, Salt Lake City ; 801-484-5737
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From traditional to coastal Mexican fare, Hector Miramar's food is some of Salt Lake's best.
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Cuisine: Mexican
Price: $$
Hours: M-Th, 11 a.m.-8 p.m.; F-S, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.; Su, 11 a.m.-8 p.m.
Liquor: Beer
Reservations: Accepted
Accepts:    
Recommended Dishes: Fajitas, deep-fried tilapia, flan.
April 8, 2005
By Nancy Hobbs
We all have seen it happen: A restaurant works hard, gets popular and then, somehow, starts falling short. Is it complacency, and letting slide the attention to detail that made the restaurant successful? It might be new management that doesn't learn about the clientele, or old management that fails to recognize deteriorating physical surroundings and cleanliness, which influence customers' first impressions.
Though not all of these factors plagued Miramar in recent years, and other neighborhood issues had an impact, there is no denying that the reputation for superior Mexican food, music and ambiance took a nose dive.
So a recent e-mail from Gene Linder of Salt Lake City was intriguing. He suggested we revisit the restaurant and see if we didn't agree with him and his wife that it has been rejuvenated under new ownership. It turns out the "new" owner isn't all that new, but things appear to be on the upswing.
Hector Duenas, the chef at Miramar since it opened a dozen years ago, recently bought out the former owner and has been working hard to spruce up the place and pay closer attention to cleanliness and management.
But his love is cooking, he said, and he doesn't want to stop doing what he enjoys. Though the restaurant's appearance hasn't changed much since my last visit several years ago, there is a small, new logo on the door indicating that the official name is now Hector's Miramar Restaurant, with a cartoon image of Hector in his beach regalia.
Inside, you will still find the small, glassed-in rooms that were initially built and used as squeeze chambers for car salesmen back when the site was an auto sales lot. They still serve a purpose, allowing diners more privacy, but giving servers a view so they can swoop in as needed. The black naugahyde-upholstered booths and tablecloths, though dated, add to the diner's charm.
One thing that separates Miramar from some of the valley's other Mexican restaurants is its inclusion, as the name implies, of fish and seafood on the menu. The options are many, from shrimp and octopus cocktails or fresh oysters to seafood stew or a steak and shrimp dinner, the most expensive item at $15.
We started with a tostada de ceviche, which our server quickly delivered along with two ice-cold beers. With only a couple of minor details in our way -- no white sand, no 90-degree temperatures, no view of the ocean's surf -- we could have been on a beach in Mexico. The flaky, white fish "cooked" in lime juice (a little less juice would have been better) was mounded generously on a crispy tortilla, whetting our appetites for more.
Fajitas sizzling on a cast-iron serving dish are always impressive, and certainly are at Miramar, with the onions sweet and caramelized, the beef tender and the strips of sweet pepper plentiful.
The real "wow," however, came with the presentation of the whole, deep-fried tilapia, which Duenas douses heavily with salt, garlic and a couple of varieties of ground pepper before frying to give the skin a flavorful crispness. Inside, the meat was creamy white and tender.
The more traditional fare didn't disappoint, either. From chiles rellenos to enchiladas and tacos, everything was nicely spiced and delivered hot. With the exception of a forgotten coffee to go with our flan, service was prompt and friendly.
The flan itself deserves special mention. It is not a unanimous favorite -- a lot of people tend to be put off by its texture, a problem that can be compounded it lacks flavor or is too gelatinous. But Miramar's flan is some of the best around, with a deep, caramelized flavor and firm texture.
Whether you're looking for traditional Mexican fare or special treats served in Mexico's coastal towns, Miramar has the variety to satisfy. With new management and closer attention to detail, it seems to be enjoying a revival.
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