Counter, The
188 S. Rio Grande St., Salt Lake City ; 801-297-1000
(see
map)
Custom burgers in a sleek dining room add another option for Gateway diners. Create your own with the numerous options available.
| Overall |
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| Food |
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| Mood |
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| Service |
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| Kid-friendly |
YES |
| Noise |
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Cuisine: American,
Price: $$
Hours: M-W, 11a.m.-9 p.m.; Th-S, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Su, 11 a.m.-7 p.m.
Liquor: Beer
Corkage: $
Reservations: Not accepted/necessary
Accepts:    
Website: http://www.thecounterburger.com/saltlakecity
Recommended Dishes: House burger, trio (French fries, onion rings and sweet potato fries), cold milkshakes.
April 1, 2009
Sleek burger joint dripping with options
By Vanessa Chang
I am, by nature, an indecisive person. Whether I'm eating out for this column or purely for social purposes, I like to be the last person to order. I want to see what other people are getting and see if I want it, too.
So I wasn't so surprised the first time I visited The Counter at the Gateway that I felt overwhelmed by choices. Over 300,000 (that's the Web site's claim; I don't do math) ways to enjoy ground beef and turkey as well as chicken breast and a signature "veggie" burger. The options lay before me in a menu I could scribble on with a pencil. I was at a table for two and therefore didn't have much to decide.
In short, I spent way too much time thinking about a burger. Impossible, you say, for a girl who routinely searches out the best burgers in town? But yes, when pressed, the decision-making was almost too much.
But I know many others, including the Voracious One, who disagree. People like him love the variety of cheese, bread, toppings and sauces. People like me should consider sticking to The Counter's set menu; it's more manageable and less stress inducing.
That's where you find the signature Counter burger ($10.50): Provolone cheese, fried onions, sun-dried tomatoes (whole and as a vinaigrette) and sautéed mushrooms over a 1/3-pound burger.
The Counter prides itself on being anti-establishment, despite being a chain. Although it has multiple locations around the country, the Gateway location has a different feel than other burger chains, with a blue steel palette, huge windows and a chrome bar flanked by flat screen televisions set to Fuel TV showcasing the latest and greatest in skateboarding, BMX biking, etc.
And this Gateway spot with corner windows is a guaranteed people-magnet, though admittedly maybe not drawing the demographic for what's showing on television. The Counter diners, instead, appear to be office workers and shoppers who converge for the upscale and laid-back mood, noshing on sides like crispy onion rings, sweet potato fries and skinny French fries ($6.50). Whether ordered in a trio, as a "Fifty-Fifty" ($4.95) or alone, it comes with three dipping sauces.
As I've said, options abound here.
Whether it's a custom burger built to order with habanero cheddar (you choose from 1/3-pound, 2/3-pound or a full-pound patty) or grilled chicken ($8.50), an order comes stacked, meticulously constructed and, therefore, hard to eat. You could attempt it with a fork and knife, but this is, after all, a burger joint and flatware seems utterly out of place. So there will be drippage. There will be casualties that fall onto the plate that you will have to rescue with your fingers. But all in all, it's a visceral experience -- even the guys in ties seem to enjoy it.
Keep in mind, the packaging is pretty. The portions are hefty, even the patties without buns that are served on greens instead. And with the upscale burger concept, let's just say you're going to end up paying more than at your neighborhood drive-thru. There are some who could never justify $9 for a burger. But with the success of Acme Burger Co. in downtown Salt Lake City and the general climate for comfort food all done up, there are plenty of people who can justify it.
During busy times, orders can be confused. Take-out patrons take note: Be sure to check your order. On a few runs to The Counter, my friends and I were disappointed to find some items missing. And of course, the time a burger spends suffocating in wrapping is time that depletes its overall quality. Ultimately, if you're gonna pay the price, enjoy it in the setting.
Also, the plethora of toppings vary in quality. It's only natural, given the range and number of customers restaurants like this go through. But even then, I don't like a lukewarm burger, especially one that had been iced down by a cold-roasted red pepper. The same rules of quality should apply whether it be a humble burger or prime filet mignon. Temperature matters.
What should be cold are the shakes and malts. Though the coffee was made disappointingly without a drop of actual coffee, malts are a sweeter, frigid counterpoint to a burger that's prepared well, especially when you're sitting right at the counter where you can hear and see servers attending to other shake orders. Service can be efficient, or at busy times, predictably lagging. If you're in a hurry during lunch, best to let your server know from the get-go.
I suggest drinking one of those of malts while you peruse the burger of the month or the menu for either custom or pre-set options. Get comfortable and take your time. It might take a while.
Tribune's rating system
Overall rating
1 star Good
2 stars Very good
3 stars Excellent
4 stars Extraordinary
Entree price
$ Entree under $10
$$ $10-$18
$$$ $18-$25
$$$$ Above $25
Restaurant Noise
1 bell Quiet (under 65 decibles)
2 bells Can talk easily (65-70)
3 bells Talking somewhat difficult (70-75)
4 bells Raised voices (75-80)
A bomb Too noisy for normal conversation (80+)
The Tribune covers the cost of all meals at reviewed restaurants. Star ratings are based on a minimum of two visits. Ratings are updated continually based on at least one revisit. There is no connection between reviews and advertising.
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