Greek Souvlaki
404 E. 300 South, Salt Lake City ; 801-322-2062
(see
map)
Favored by a fiercely loyal following, this local institution made its name with the hearty gyro and souvlaki (meat on a stick).
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Cuisine: Greek,
Price: $
Hours: M-S, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.
Liquor: None
Corkage: $
Reservations: Not accepted/necessary
Accepts:    
Website:
Recommended Dishes: Gyro with white sauce, pork or chicken souvlaki.
November 20, 2008
My big fat Greek favorite
By Vanessa Chang
In this hectic frenzy we call the holiday season, between the sit-down feasts and parties, we search out the quick bite to eat to sustain our current pursuits. And hey, if it happens to be incredibly affordable and taste good, who's to complain?
That sort of place is Greek Souvlaki, a restaurant that so many, including myself, have dined at for so long and often, it becomes an unconscious habit.
Some may question why Greek Souvlaki is on the docket. Some may call it fast food. By its multiple locations (three in all), some may think of it as a chain operation. I think of it as an institution. The original downtown location -- which I consider to be the best out of the three -- has been around for about 36 years, when the Poulos family opened its doors and brought made-to-order fast food with a Greek flavor. Since then, it's often on the short list of the best places to eat in town according to chowhounds and non-foodies alike. Two people can feast like kings for under $20.
There's no pretense here. You order at the counter and, after paying, you're given a number and you wait for your tray or bag full of straightforward, honest and hefty fare. So does everyone else. No one gets seated ahead of you because they know the manager. There are no lost reservations, no special treatment. Under Greek Souvlaki's roof (now under the direction of the original owners' sons), everyone is on equal footing.
Joe the Plumber would eat here; so would Joseph the Attorney. Take a look around you the next time you order your meal "to stay." There's a cross-section of life during a busy period, a scene that can be mundane, humorous or downright heartbreaking. Office folks talking shop, a group of flamboyant protesters chowing down after some loud chanting, an empty nest couple quietly eating and fixating on Tyler Florence on the flat screen, or the dour-looking Bosnian couple heading for Splits Ville.
They fuel their everyday existence with the recognizable burger and fries, not to mention a cinnamon-scented meat sauce on top of spaghetti ($5.19), spinach pie (spanokopita, $2.85) and stuffed grape leaves (dolmathes, $2.85; $4.89). The latter tastes a bit lackluster compared to the richness of the other two. But there's always fried zucchini discs (I like to dip them in the gyro's white sauce, $2.75) or seasonal soups, like lemon-chicken rice ($2.69) or the distantly-related lemon rice ($2.35) that comes with all dinner plates in its shockingly-yellow glory. The grains are distinct, yet strangely creamy thanks to a strong dose of buillion. If you need something to counteract the sodium, there's the concentrated sweetness of a baklava triangle ($1.55).
Truly though, you come for the gyro ("yee-ro," $4.75), arguably the best around. I know one or two Salt Lake City natives homesick for Greek Souvlakis in their new cities. A bit of a disclaimer, here: The savory strips don't come from an actual animal leg. What you see from the counter, spinning on the spit is a cone of minced, compressed beef and lamb, an industry standard. A slicer in the shape of a magnifying glass whines whenever the cook uses it to shave fresh pieces for the latest order.
Along with tomato and onion, you get a choice of sauce -- red or white -- which can spark fierce debate. I hereby pledge allegiance to the white sauce crowd. The creamy, cooling tang is a nice contrast to the savory character of the gyro meat. A wrapping of pillowy, fried pita transforms it into the complete, self-contained meal. You can get a side of fries ($1.95; 2.25) or splurge for an extra $3 to make it a dinner plate with fries and rice and an iceberg salad I never really eat, but keep on my tray out of tradition.
The same ordering pattern goes for the souvlaki (pork or chicken, $4.75; dinner plate, $7.49-$7.69), which is basically meat on a stick. Greek Souvlaki's version has the meat alternating with thick patches of onion and zucchini; at least you can say you had some vegetables. If you're fixated on not gaining holiday weight, you can opt for it on top of salad greens. I'll stick with the meat. Give me souvlaki and some manner of carb ... or simply the gyro.
Sinking your teeth through layers of meat, soft pita and cooling sauce is both comforting and fortifying, which is just what you and I need to get us through the rest of the holiday season -- there's still much to do.
Tribune's rating system
Overall rating
1 star Good
2 stars Very good
3 stars Excellent
4 stars Extraordinary
Entree price
$ Entree under $10
$$ $10-$18
$$$ $18-$25
$$$$ Above $25
Restaurant Noise
1 bell Quiet (under 65 decibles)
2 bells Can talk easily (65-70)
3 bells Talking somewhat difficult (70-75)
4 bells Raised voices (75-80)
A bomb Too noisy for normal conversation (80+)
The Tribune covers the cost of all meals at reviewed restaurants. Star ratings are based on a minimum of two visits. Ratings are updated continually based on at least one revisit. There is no connection between reviews and advertising.
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