Asian Isle
488 E. 100 South, Salt Lake City ; 801-363-8833
(see
map)
Familiar take-out options aplenty at this Chinese eatery. Much of the food is unremarkable.
| Overall |
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| Food |
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| Mood |
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| Service |
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| Kid-friendly |
YES |
| Noise |
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Cuisine: Chinese,
Price: $
Hours: M-Th, 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m.; F-S, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.
Liquor: None
Corkage: $
Reservations: Not accepted/necessary
Accepts:   
Website:
Recommended Dishes: Orange chicken, coconut shrimp, "veggie" rice.
Aug. 13, 2008
Seek it out if you favor the familiar
By Vanessa Chang
Lang Lang, one of the stars of the Beijing Olympic opening ceremonies recently told the New Yorker, "Western classical music in China is usually like Chinese food in the West -- familiar but not quite the real thing." The classical pianist (basically China's answer to Pavarotti) was talking in the context of his trade, but the quote could easily be reversed to address the representation of Chinese flavor in our neighborhoods.
Asian Isle is one of the latest Chinese eateries in Salt Lake City. Housed in a former convenience store, the menu is full of the familiar and superficial Chinese-American favorites. The appeal is there for many. But other diners may long for something deeper than sweet and sour chicken ($5.95 lunch combo; $7.50 dinner) and General Tsao's ($9.95).
On the whole, the food isn't bad. It simply isn't remarkable. And that suits the lunchgoer (combos here are a deal at $5.95 to $8.25) and take-out set just fine. Like many other places, Asian Isle attempts to stretch their appeal with confusing forays into chicken strips and fries in the kids' meals ($3.75) and hot and spicy wings ($6.25) -- essentially buffalo wings -- and cheese sticks ($5.75) in the appetizers. The menu and the overall dining experience wouldn't be hurt by their absence.
What I did miss was aromatics in an otherwise pleasant, generous bowl of deluxe wonton soup ($6.25). The soup itself was flat - chicken broth and an austere shot of soy. The tender dumplings and succulent shrimp needed something to cut through the monotony -- sliced ginger root, star anise -- anything.
For more adventurous diners, they may accuse Asian Isle of monotony -- an abundance of chicken dishes doused in sweet sauces, then there's the Mongolian beef ($8.50) that's incredibly tender but lacks flavor.
The restaurant's namesake spicy shrimp ($11.95) with fried rice ($5.95 to $7.95) hardly lived up to its descriptor. The Voracious One who has accompanied me to many-a-spicy Thai joint was disappointed. He and other imbibing companions were also let down when they discovered there was nothing to wash down their meals. The restaurant has no liquor, beer or wine and no immediate plans to obtain any. I can't say that I blame them -- the process is tedious, not to mention the cost involved. But it may help out business to round out their beverage menu.
But there are highlights. If you call for take-out, as many people seem to do here, your order is ready in a matter of minutes. If you dine in the clean, airy space, the service is lightning quick and pleasant. When the dining room is particularly quiet, you can hear the roar of the wok fire every time the hostess passes through the kitchen door.
Dishes here are mercifully less greasy than at other Chinese restaurants. For instance, the "veggie" fried rice is something any diner -- vegetarian or not -- can enjoy. Sizzling hot, the grains were at once moist and fluffy showing an adept use of heat from the wok.
Though General Tsao and sesame chicken ($8.95) are popular, during some visits they were undistinguishable in their sweet gooeyness. But the orange peel chicken ($8.95) was a particular favorite. In fact, Asian Isle's kitchen has a way with deep-frying -- the batter is always steaming hot and crunchy. Be warned that sometimes the meat is perfectly cooked, sometimes dried out. But it's the sauce that saves the orange chicken. Yes, the basis is rather sweet and gooey. But a note of acidity rounds out any potential sickliness. It's a bit addictive when glazed over the crunchy morsels of chicken. Flecks of fresh orange peel add to the flavor and appealing peachy glow.
In this dish, a wonderful performance by Asian Isle, but still true to Lang Lang's observation. It's comfortingly familiar in every sense, but not quite the real thing.
Tribune's rating system
Overall rating
1 star Good
2 stars Very good
3 stars Excellent
4 stars Extraordinary
Entree price
$ Entree under $10
$$ $10-$18
$$$ $18-$25
$$$$ Above $25
Restaurant Noise
1 bell Quiet (under 65 decibles)
2 bells Can talk easily (65-70)
3 bells Talking somewhat difficult (70-75)
4 bells Raised voices (75-80)
A bomb Too noisy for normal conversation (80+)
The Tribune covers the cost of all meals at reviewed restaurants. Star ratings are based on a minimum of two visits. Ratings are updated continually based on at least one revisit. There is no connection between reviews and advertising.
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