Chef's Table
2005 State St., Orem ; 801-235-9111
(see
map)
This is Orem's "fine dining" destination. Not very crowded unless it is prom season. Boasts a romantic setting.
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Cuisine: American
Price: $$$
Hours: M-F, 11 a.m.-2 p.m.; M-S, 5-9:30 p.m.
Liquor: Full Service
Reservations: --
Accepts:    
Recommended Dishes: Beef carpaccio, honey-mustard chicken, coconut curry shrimp.
January 7, 2005
By Nancy Hobbs
OREM -- Next to a BYU-Utah game, a seat at the Chef's Table could be the hottest ticket in town. At least that appeared to be the case just before Christmas, when the restaurant was booked fairly solid and the hostess indicated that a reservation for the weeknight we were hoping to dine would be difficult.
But with the drive from the southern Salt Lake valley to Orem ahead of us, I wasn't looking for anything before 8, which she could accommodate. A similar conversation took place later, in making a lunch reservation. Since my dining companions and I prefer to eat on the later side of the lunch hour, a table could be reserved easily.
Lesson No. 1: Utah Valley diners seem to eat en masse during traditional peak hours. If you're willing to be different, you can get a table and attentive service.
Chef's Table is the creation of Kent Andersen, or "Chef Kent" as the embroidered name on his uniform reads. He came to Utah eight years ago to join the banquet staff at the Joseph Smith Memorial Building, a major transition from cooking at the Ritz-Carlton in Boston.
Three years ago, he made another major departure, striking out on his own in Utah County. With a dearth of fine-dining options in that ever-growing valley, it seemed the perfect place to plant his notion of a restaurant. Besides, it just happened that a baronial structure, with a circular tower and spouting crane fountain facing Orem's main drag, was available.
He renovated the interior, replacing the jungle motif of the former Restaurant Roy with more elegant furnishings, including a baby grand piano near the doorway and a large mirrored wall that gives an expansive feel to the room. A recent expansion increases the restaurant's capacity but retains its southeast view overlooking Provo and framing the Wasatch Mountains.
The refined ambience has contributed to making Chef's Table a popular spot for wedding lunches and dinners. But what best qualifies it for the title of "most romantic place in town" is the phenomenal number of engagement proposals uttered there. In fact, with more than two dozen engagements per month, Andersen estimates, it might even set some sort of global record.
And those are just the proposals the Chef's Table staff knows of because it has been asked to play a role: special seating in the semi-private cove of the tower; an especially elaborate table setting; or an assist with the ring's presentation, perhaps with dessert, flowers or candy.
"We try to be really accommodating in that regard," says the chef.
Lesson No. 2: Book now for Valentine's Day.
The menu sets Chef's Table apart as much as anything else, starting with appetizers ($8 to $12) of roasted duck in phyllo, sauteed wild mushrooms, seafood wontons and the excellent carpaccio of beef tenderloin with roasted red peppers and bruschetta toasts, to name a few.
Dinner entrees also are diverse and beautiful in presentation, from a selection of entree salads and several intriguing chicken dishes, to seafood, rack of lamb, seared duck breast with a tart cherry reduction, and several steaks.
There wasn't much to criticize about Chef's Table on our visits, except to quibble with serving sizes, particularly at dinner. Our entrees were more than ample and would easily fit the "portion distortion" definition of health experts. My preference, though perhaps not a popular one, would be smaller servings, with prices adjusted accordingly.
My entree of tiger sea shrimp and seared sea scallops ($21) was as much seafood as one might get in two, or even three dinners elsewhere. I counted nine shrimp and 10 scallops, probably half of which came home with me; it was too good to let go. On the side were a generous amount of buttery rice and delicious medley of sauteed vegetables, including carrots, zucchini and snow peas.
The honey-mustard chicken ($18) came with two roasted breast halves finished with a succulent sauce and almonds; and the ribeye steak -- just shy of 1 pound -- was perfectly cooked and beautifully presented but, once again, simply too much of a good thing ($27).
The steak was served with tender roasted rosemary baby potatoes and the evening's sauteed vegetables, the one thing in short supply.
All of the entrees come with a house salad, served with a pleasant balsamic vinaigrette, or soup, including a very beefy French onion gratinee or daily special, which on our dinner visit was a creamy and flavorful Tuscan tomato.
The lunch menu at Chef's Table is likewise suited for a special occasion, but also attracts a lot of the area's business crowd.
Entree salads, rich pastas and seafood options are plentiful, and there is even a hamburger on the menu, but the highlight of our day was the butternut squash soup: incredibly creamy and luscious.
That's not to say the coconut curry shrimp wasn't excellent, doused with a light curry sauce that complemented the sweetness of the coconut ($13.50). And the chicken and roasted red pepper pasta, dressed in a creamy asiago sauce, was also delightful ($9.50).
Chef's Table complements its dinner and lunch options with an impressive wine list and noticeably lower markups, by the glass or bottle, than many comparable restaurants.
Lesson No. 3: You can get a drink -- wine, beer or cocktail -- in Utah County's twin cities.
Passing up dessert at Chef's Table is almost impossible, and apparently not many people do. Just seeing the plated delicacies as they're whisked off to distant tables is enough to start diners planning ahead.
The beggar's purse, in particular, is a visual treat, with apple filling wrapped like a present in golden, flaky phyllo. The purse itself is delectable, but the caramel creme anglaise in which it sits is heavenly.
The house cheesecake is supposedly a delight, but Andersen admitted while making the rounds of each table on the night of our visit that he had to order commercial cheesecake for the holidays. He was serving upwards of 400 pieces daily, and the kitchen was simply too busy to keep up with that demand without some help.
Lesson No. 4: As far as vices in Utah County go, cheesecake is probably second only to ice cream.
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